Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Buying Guide

A ductless mini-split heat pump is a compact and versatile heating and air conditioning alternative to conventional HVAC systems reliant on ducts to distribute conditioned air throughout an environment. Ductless technology is ideal for applications in which installing a conventional product would be too costly or technically difficult to be worthwhile. Are you interested in mini-split technology, but don't know what you need to get for your home?

Don't worry, this buying guide can help.

Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Overview

Ductless split systems might be smaller than central heating and air units, but they're just as sophisticated. Let's start with the basics:

  1. Ductless units rely on the same refrigeration cycle as regular air conditioners.
  2. All ductless mini-splits are electric. None need natural gas or other fuels.
  3. Unlike window air conditioners, ductless mini-splits can be very energy efficient.
  4. Overall, ductless units need a much smaller installation footprint than central HVAC units.

 

Types of Ductless Split Systems

Ductless Split System Air Conditioner

A ductless split system air conditioner is the most basic ductless unit you can find. These are cooling-only systems. They typically feature an interior wall-mounted air handler and an outside condenser. These are lightweight, and easy for a trained professional to install. If you will only ever need cooling, a ductless a/c unit could be a great choice for your home.

Ductless Split System Heat Pump

Ductless split system heat pumps are typically the product we recommend to customers who want a total comfort ductless solution. Like a ductless air conditioner, a ductless heat pump can cool, but it can also heat. That flexibility is really valuable, and typically does not increase the sales price by a large margin. Generally, ductless heat pump heating is good for early spring, late fall, and mild winter conditions. They are not designed to heat at maximum capacity below freezing or below zero.

Ductless Hyper Heat Units

Many manufacturers sell ductless "Hyper Heat" units. These are ductless heat pumps made to optimize their cold weather heating potential. In this regard, the developers have been fairly successful in fielding a heat pump that can produce significant heat below freezing and even below zero. While a Hyper Heat ductless unit is no replacement for a traditional gas furnace in extreme cold weather regions, these are the most effective ductless heating tools available.

Ductless Multi-Zone Systems

A ductless multi-zone system is a ductless heat pump that connects multiple interior air handling units to a single outside condenser. Typically, a ductless system is installed to service a single interior zone. Multi-zone systems can provide heating and cooling for up to five different interior zones. That is often sufficient to distribute conditioned air throughout an entire home of average size.

Ductless Air Handler Configuration

While ductless condensers are all very similar in design, ductless interior air handlers are available in different shapes and sizes. The most common wall-mounted air handler is a lightweight rectangular box that hangs on an inside wall. Ceiling-mounted cassette units can be installed in ceiling spaces when desired or when wall mounting is not an option. Ceiling-mounted concealed duct units are another option for homeowners who do not find either wall-mounted air handlers or cassettes to their liking.


 

Common Ductless Components & Features

SEER

SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. Long story short, SEER is a measure of how efficient your heat pump or air conditioner will cool your home through a long hot summer. Just like conventional products, ductless mini-split heat pumps measure their cooling efficiency with SEER.

HSPF

HSPF stands for Heating Season Performance Factor. Like SEER, HSPF is a measure of efficiency. Unlike SEER, HSPF measures winter heating performance as opposed to summer cooling. The better the HSPF, the more efficiently your ductless unit will heat.

Compressor

The compressor is the heart of any heat pump or air conditioner. That is as true for ductless units as it is a big central a/c. Previous generation systems tended to use rotary or scroll compressors. Many of the newest ductless units use inverter compressors. Inverter compressors are definitely a superior choice, and when possible you should opt for a ductless unit that relies on one. They allow the heat pump to operate more effectively and efficiently.

Blower Motor

A blower motor is an interior air handler component. Quite simply, it is the part that blows air over a hot or cold coil to make the interior zone either hotter or colder. It's really that simple.

Coil

The evaporator coil and condenser coil are two parts of the same device that allow a heat pump or air conditioner to cool, heat, or dehumidify. Most ductless coils are smaller than their conventional counterparts due to the compact size ductless applications require. Whenever possible, opt for a coil that is corrosion-resistant, since corrosion is always a major long term coil concern.

Wireless Capability

The vast majority of ductless mini-splits (or conventional HVAC systems) do not have any wireless or smartphone compatibility. However, this is changing. The latest generation of ductless products allow homeowners to control their ductless units with smartphone apps. Some top-of-the-line units are even compatible with common smarthome products like Alexa, Google Assist, Nest, and others.

Refrigerant Line Set Connection Type

The most common ductless lineset you will find are flared connections. Any experienced professional will find these easy to work with. The newest lineset on the market are precharged lines often sold as DIY products. These lines are precharged with refrigerant, and are usually only compatible with certain products.

Air Filters

Just like any central air conditioner, a ductless mini-split heat pump will have an air filter or filters that it uses to keep dust, pollen, and other contaminants away from the coil. Always refer to your owner's manual, but these usually need to be cleaned regularly. Which means every month or two, and not every year or two.

Warranty

Ductless mini-split heat pump warranty terms and conditions can vary, so be sure to read any warranty before you buy a product. However, most ductless units come standard with a warranty that will last anywhere from 5-10 years. Sometimes you may need to register the warranty to get the full terms. You typically have 60 days to do that from the date of installation. Don't forget!


Ductless Mini Split System Top Sellers


Want to Know More About A Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump?

Do you still have questions about ductless mini-split heat pump or air conditioner systems? Just ask us in the comments below.

125 comments (view/add)
  • Steve
    Steve
    Posted on 1/17/2021

    I have. 671 sq ft basement beneath a garage in kansas city mo. Concrete walls and 8 ft or less concrete ceiling. I'm looking at mr cool diy 12k or 18k. Which size would you recommend for both heat and cooling?

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/18/2021

    The only way to know for sure what you need is with a Manual J load calculation. An 18k would generally be considered the right choice for a space that size. The fact that it is underground, and therefore likely more stable in terms of temperature change, could reduce your requirements.

  • Ben
    Ben
    Posted on 1/4/2021

    I live in northern California in a redwood forest, so the AC would only be needed a handful of times in the summer, heating needed most of the winter to replace a single wall furnace that is used to heat the whole house. The house is roughly 700 sq.ft total.
    I tried to calculated my total required BTU's for our small house to be 9000 BTU for cooling and 14.100 BTU for heating, though I'm not 100% sure. The two bedrooms are small, 195 sq.ft and 150 sq.ft, but with high sloped ceilings. The sloped ceiling are 8.5' at lowest to 12' at highest point. The downstairs is all open plan (no doors except for the bathroom), roughly 352 sq.ft, with 9' ceilings.
    The smallest Mr Cool DIY multi zone compressor unit is 27,000 BTU, and the smallest indoor air handler is 9000 BTU.
    Will a 9000 BTU air handler and a 27,000 BTU outdoor unit in such small bedrooms be crazy/inefficient?
    I am thinking of installing 27,000 BTU multi zone DIY outdoor unit, with two 9000 BTU air handlers for the bedrooms and one 12,000 BTU air handler for the downstairs.
    Any feedback would be great!

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/4/2021

    We're not an engineering firm, so I can't say definitely, but what you suggest does not seem unreasonable given that mini-split systems use variable speed compressors that can operate at less than maximum load. It's a guess, of course, but it sounds right.

  • Tom cassella
    Tom cassella
    Posted on 1/1/2021

    Also a tech question. Does the outside condenser need to be installed lower than interior air handling unit for any flow or gravity reasons? Im considering installing the outside unit higher for security reasons

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/4/2021

    An outside condenser can be installed higher than the interior air handler. The condensate drain from the air handler would need to be run down to allow for gravity removal of condensate.

  • Tom cassella
    Tom cassella
    Posted on 1/1/2021

    Im renovating a house in NW Alabama. Very damp. I have a couple of questions. How well does the mrcool diy heat pump minisplit remove moisture from the air in heat and or cool mode? Second question since im renovating myself and going relatively slowly is it practical to buy a 4 zone unit and add air handlers to it as i finish off rooms or do i have to buy 4 handlers with a 4 zone unit

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/4/2021

    The DIY will dehumidify in cooling mode. It also has Dry Mode that will improve dehumidification ability. A multi-zone unit can be installed piece by piece. However, the initial installation must account for at least 50% of capacity.

  • Bill
    Bill
    Posted on 12/22/2020

    What is the advantages between the DIY and ANVANTAGE units? Also looking at DuctlessAir units if you care to comment.

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 12/23/2020

    The DIY has pre-charged lines and simple connections. It doesn't have to be vacuumed or charged in the field. The Advantage units are not pre-charged, but they have a lower price tag. I'm not terribly familiar with DuctlessAir units, but the last time I looked at them they had very basic warranty coverage (only 1 year). The DIY is 5-year parts, 7-year compressor.

  • William Wells
    William Wells
    Posted on 12/15/2020

    Have a two level, two zone structure. 1st level = 600SF, 2nd level = 700Sf. Need best rated, best priced Dual Zone DIY Heat Pump. Thank you

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 12/16/2020

    We'll have a member of our team reach out to you soon with some options.

  • Willim
    Willim
    Posted on 11/22/2020

    Hi, Building detached garage workspace in middleTN; 2 stry 1200sq ft/level one big room each level 2x6 studs and closed cell foam. manual J calcs from software come up with 14k cooling 36k heating which i find a little odd because its freaking hot down here. looking to DIY w heat pump. With a heat pump, how do you consider the disparity in heating/cooling BTU? second, its one big room on each fllor but kinda long, was thinking about 2 air handlers per floor. Can you advice

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 11/23/2020

    It is not too unusual to see a significant disparity between the BTU requirements for heating vs cooling. When a heat pump is being used then normally there must be some additional source of heat if the unit is properly sized for cooling. If the system is sized for heating then there will be complications for AC operations. In general a large room will be better conditioned with multiple air handlers with the increased circulation.

  • Corinne L. Mason
    Corinne L. Mason
    Posted on 11/8/2020

    Do these DIY kits come with everything you need? Or do you have other parts you need to buy, and if so what are they? I am looking at your 27K BTU 22SEEp Multi Zone MrCool DIY 3 Zone Ductless heat Pump Split system 9K, 12K, 12K. I am looking for it to heat three bedrooms that are each about 15x12

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 11/9/2020

    They come with most of what you need. They don't include a base pad or bracket for the condenser, disconnect box, or electrical whip. You also might need additional refrigerant lines depending on your installation requirements.

  • Terry Barton
    Terry Barton
    Posted on 10/30/2020

    Can you shut off zones in a ductless Multi-Zone System when the rooms aren't in use? Are there time of day schedule controllers for each zone?

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 10/30/2020

    Yes, you can shut off individual zones. You can also set zones at different temperatures. Whether or not zone schedule control is available would depend on the features of the particular model.

  • Min
    Min
    Posted on 10/20/2020

    My contractor recommends Cooltime mini-split system to us, couldn't get much info about this brand online, I was told it's related to Gree? Is it a brand we can trust? Thank you very much for your insights!

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 10/21/2020

    Min, I am sorry to say that I have never heard of Cooltime. I did a quick Google search, and it looks pretty straightforward. I'm not sure who the manufacturer is. Gree is a reputable company. If you can confirm it is a Gree unit, then the units would probably be fine. But since you're having a professional install it, the real question is how much the pro is backing up the equipment.

  • Bob Manning
    Bob Manning
    Posted on 9/26/2020

    I have a 24 x 48 ft unfinished open basement (used mostly for storage) with an outside door at one end and an open 8 step staircase to a foyer area about 1/2 way down the 48 ft length. I live in Northwest New Jersey, and would like to know what size mini split system I would need to keep it cool in the summer and heated in the winter. The floor is concrete, walls are cinder block and the 8 ft high ceiling is insulated.

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 10/5/2020

    Cooling would most likely not be an issue for a 24k mini-split. However, you would probably need greater capacity for heating the same space than you would for cooling. The estimate for zone 3 (most of New Jersey is in zone 3) is 40 to 45 BTUs per square foot. Your best bet might be a 24k for cooling and some heating with a secondary system for supplemental heating on the very coldest days.

  • JOHN LE
    JOHN LE
    Posted on 9/11/2020

    are you, guys still in business? I have been called, but there were nobody answered.

  • Dan Danowski
    Dan Danowski from Ingrams
    Posted on 9/14/2020

    Yes, we are. We've had a lot more calls than usual this year due to the pandemic, and sometimes the lines are just full.

  • Jon
    Jon
    Posted on 9/8/2020

    I'm in southern California. Looking to cool a 580 sq ft 3-car garage (9' ceiling) as my gym. Most AC btu calculators say either 12k or 18k. I read thru all your comments and think an 18k system is the way to do it. Just wanted to confirm since a 12k utilizes a 120v circuit and takes up less space.

    Also if I opt to install a MrCool DIY (12k or 18k) AC split, the instruction says to cut the 3.5" hole to the right rear (looking at the handler from the front). But can the refrigerant/drain line be installed to exit the left rear side of the air handler? What about exiting the left/right sides instead of the rear?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 9/9/2020

    It does sound like you would need something between a 12k and an 18k. If the insulation is a bit lacking, then an 18k might be a better option.

    It is possible to run the lines on the DIY out via the left rear side. Though this is a more difficult installation, and more prone to error. We recommend going straight out the right rear if at all possible.

  • CC Kleinpeter
    CC Kleinpeter
    Posted on 9/4/2020

    For a mini split system do I need separate air handler‘s for each room? The set up is a living room ,kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. Or do I need just one system for the total square footage

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 9/8/2020

    Mini-split air handlers in the living room and bedroom are a good idea. We discourage putting them in a kitchen or bathroom due to excess humidity and cooking fumes.

  • Dolly
    Dolly
    Posted on 8/29/2020

    Our home is almost 2500 sq ft. We currently have oil heat and we want to get rid of it completely. We have 3 bedrooms and bath upstairs. The remain living space it downstairs. We are located in Northern Pennsylvania so the winters can be bad at times but always seems to be long. The summers can be very hot and humid. How big of a unit or units would I need to keep the house cool in the summer and warm in the winter?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 8/31/2020

    There are a lot of options. You could replace your oil heat with gas furnace units or DC inverter heat pump systems. You might be better served by separate systems for upstairs and downstairs. There is a lot to consider. Give us a call at 270-575-9595.

  • John
    John
    Posted on 8/26/2020

    I have a home in coastal Northern California. It is warm enough to need AC for only a month or so a year and the unit will mostly uses for heating. The area is rather mild in the winter and is only in the low to mid 30s at night and 50s during the day for a couple of months
    My house has two rooms that need to be heated: a great room that is 24x50 (1200 sq ft) and a bedroom that is 250 sq ft. It has R15 in the walls and R60 in the attic.
    I would like to get a multi zone mini split system. What size would you recommend? Would it be ok to get two air handlers for the larger room to get more even heating and cooling? It seems that a 9k air handler for the bedroom would be way overkill. Can the system compensate for an over sized air handler?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 8/27/2020

    You could do multi-zone for that kind of space. If you only wanted air handlers in the main room, you could install dual 18k air handlers. If you wanted to do there air handlers, you could always position the 9k air handler in such a way that it could blow through an open doorway into the main space.

  • Crystal Prud Homme Delodder
    Crystal Prud Homme Delodder
    Posted on 8/24/2020

    I have a detached garage approximately 25 feet away from my house in my backyard. My attached garage has be split in half and I made a salon out of the back half of that garage. My detached garage that is 20-25 feet directly behind that has been turned into a man cave. I need ac and heat in both locations. Can I use one dual zone mini split Heat pump to control both locations? If so how can I how the lines? Can I run them underground so they are not laying across my backyard?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 8/26/2020

    You could use a dual-zone for both. Standard lines are 16' and 25'. You can use a coupler kit to connect two lines together. Some homeowners have run them underground.

  • Liam Kerr
    Liam Kerr
    Posted on 8/13/2020

    Hi! I have a 1650 sq ft in So California. 4 average size bedrooms with about 1000 sq ft open space living dining kitchen. I need cooling and heating in all rooms Mainly cooling as we have central heat but it is spotty and not effective in the main parts of the house. What size unit do I need for the main area. It’s 3 “rooms” that are all connected and get so hot. Do I need one compressor for the main area and then a separate compressor and blowers connected to all the bedrooms? Or can one compressor work all those areas efficiently? What size? Thanks!

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 8/14/2020

    You could install a single-zone DIY 24k or 36k, depending on insulation and local climate, for the main area. Then you could do a multi-zone for the bedrooms with an air handler in each room (i.e. - a four-zone system). Alternatively, you could do an entire five-zone for the entire house.

  • Ed
    Ed
    Posted on 7/30/2020

    I have a small rectangular home in Connecticut (988 SF). Approx 688 of that is living room/kitchen (open) and a 300SF bedroom at one end.
    I'm having trouble determining if a single zone would make sense (cheaper) or multi-zone so I can have only the BR zone on at night, etc.
    Can you make a recommendation as to zones and mini-split DIY model to consider?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 8/3/2020

    A lot of that will come down to personal preference. You could do an 18k in the main room and a 9k in the bedroom.

  • Derek
    Derek
    Posted on 7/28/2020

    I'm in the process of finishing half of a large attic as living space and plan to finish the rest in a year or two. I want to install a mini-split system with 4 zones, but I would only be using 2 of the zones for the first couple of years. Should I buy a compressor that is big enough to run all 4 zones if 2 of them will not be used for a while, or would it be better to buy a smaller compressor now, then upgrade it when I add the other zones? (I don't have the outdoor space to install 2 compressors)

  • Steven
    Steven from Ingrams
    Posted on 7/30/2020

    The air handlers you are running have to use at least 2/3 (66%) of the available capacity of the condenser.

  • Francisco Macedo
    Francisco Macedo
    Posted on 7/9/2020

    I have a single story block house that has 1400sf, three bedroom 1 bath. What kind of system would you recommend? I live in central Florida which has high humidity all the time.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 7/10/2020

    A multi-zone installation would probably work best. You could have one air handler in the main living space and others in the bedrooms. And all mini-splits dehumidify automatically, so that shouldn't be an issue.

  • Burt
    Burt
    Posted on 7/1/2020

    I have 2 questions. First, background: I have a metal building in central Texas with an upstairs training room (20x30), with 9’ ceiling and R23 ceiling/walls. Downstairs is a shop space with 8’ ceiling. I would like to control the temps to moderate the extremes, but don’t really need “living space” control, if that makes sense.

    It seems like 2 x 12k air handlers upstairs and one downstairs would do what I want. The upstairs lines would be longer than 25’.

    Question 1: Am I reasonably close on sizing?
    Question 2: Are linger lines available in the DIY bundles?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 7/1/2020

    1. Reasonably close. I would probably err on the side of an 18k for that size in Texas, but since you're only looking to 'take the edge' off a 12k would probably be fine.
    2. Longer line sets are not available, but you can get a coupler kit that will extend length. You could get an outside wall mount to put the condenser on too.

  • Jeff Biggs
    Jeff Biggs
    Posted on 6/24/2020

    Can the condenser unit be placed underneath a deck that is approximately 6 feet high. What else exactly do I need to purchase with my diy mini split

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/24/2020

    Provided that the condenser could be installed according to the clearance requirements detailed in the installation manual and there was plenty of air flow under the deck (i.e. - the sides aren't boarded up or anything like that), then it should work. For the DIY units that we sell, you would need an electrical whip, disconnect box, and a wall bracket or mounting pad.

  • Troy Auth
    Troy Auth
    Posted on 6/12/2020

    I'm looking to use a mutli-zone unit to cool the second-story of our 100yo bungalow & take the chill off when it is not efficient to operate our hot water boiler with the original cast iron radiators in each room in the fall & spring here in MN (Twin Cities). There are 3 bedrooms & a small bathroom on this floor. The master bedroom is used every day & has 156 sq ft & a 42 sq st walk-in closet (approx 200 sq ft total). Since this is where my girlfriend & I sleep we would like a separate wall unit for this room. The other two bedrooms are used for an office & for occasional guests. It would nice If we didn't have to put a separate wall unit in each of these rooms. The spare & office bedrooms are each 120 sq ft (175 with their walk-in closets) & the bathroom is 50 sq ft (75 with small closet). There is a small hallway & open space above the stairway to main floor that is an additional 100 sq ft. So these 2 bedrooms, the bathroom & the hall/stairway add an additional 390 sq ft (525 with closets). The exterior walls are not insulated very well, but there is R-50+ insulation in the attic & the windows are all fairly new & have insulated glass. I'm amazed at how cheap our natural gas bill is when heating the house with our new boiler during the winter.

    I think an 18K outside/condenser unit will do the job & would like to put a 6-9K wall unit in the master bedroom, but am really struggling with what to use for the rest of the floor. The doorways to the spare & office bedrooms & bathroom are just 2-3 feet away from the landing at the top of the open stairway & therefore I'm wondering if the air from the 4 sides of a ceiling cassette will be sufficient to cool these areas off. The side facing west will blow straight into the office bedroom, the side facing north into the spare bedroom, the side facing east into the 4-5 foot hallway leading to the bathroom (on the right) & the master bedroom that will have its own wall unit straight ahead & the side facing south into the open space above the stairway going to the main floor. All 3 bedrooms have good ceiling fans in them & the open stairway has a really good ceiling fan in its peak. How do you think a 12K cassette would do there? Or do you think a 12K wall unit placed up high on the south wall of the open stairway (blowing towards the offie & spare bedrooms) would be just as good or better? Thanks in advance for any advice you're willing to share! Covid19 has my girlfriend working at home these days, she's starting to get a little warm & the old window AC she's using is really inefficient!

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/15/2020

    Troy, putting a dedicated air handler in your master bedroom is the right idea. I also think that a wall unit positioned to blow towards the office and spare bedrooms would work well. A reliable mini-split air handler can push air much farther than you might think.

  • Don Kellenberger
    Don Kellenberger
    Posted on 6/5/2020

    Follow up. Location in mid Michigan for 1600 sq ft bungalow.

  • Don kellenberger
    Don kellenberger
    Posted on 6/5/2020

    I have two story bungalow with 2 bedrooms and bath up ( about 500sq ft) and living room dining room kitchen and bth on lower ( 1000 to 1100 sq ft). Feel I need multi zone to cover 2 upper bedrooms separately. And then zone for lower floors.

    How does it work for 2 story homes like this.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/8/2020

    From the information provided, it seems likely you could do the entire bungalow with a single multi-zone system. One outside condenser, two air handlers upstairs, and two air handlers downstairs. Depending on the layout, you might be able to have only one air handler downstairs.

  • Zack
    Zack
    Posted on 6/4/2020

    I am wanting to cool/heat my garage. It’s 22’x22’ with 8’ ceiling. I need to keep it in the 60-75 degree range for the materials I work with. I live in NW Oklahoma, gets above 100 degrees quite a bit. Do I need a 12k or 18k btu heat pump?

    Thank you

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/5/2020

    An 18k would likely be the best fit for that space.

  • Masum
    Masum
    Posted on 5/30/2020

    I have a two story house in NYC. It has centralized oil heating system. I am planning to install duck less split unit for heating and cooling. 1st floor about 1100 sq.ft and second floor 700 sq. ft. What do you suggest. Does it save money?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/1/2020

    A ductless mini-split can definitely save money. They tend to have higher energy efficiency performance than central air units. For a two story, we would recommend a multi-zone installation. You could have a single outside condenser and multiple interior air handlers upstairs and downstairs. The number of air handlers you would need will really depend on interior layout. Also, since your in NYC, we would definitely recommend maintaining your oil heating system as backup for very cold winter days.

  • Clayton Hudson
    Clayton Hudson
    Posted on 5/29/2020

    Kyle, I have a 14x40 glassed in porch with a sloping ceiling that is 15ft at the top and slopes down to 8 ft at the bottom. What size heating/cooling do you suggest, and would it be more efficient installing it on one of the end walls or on one of the side walls?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/1/2020

    In terms of positioning, you want to place the air handler where it can distribute the air through as much of the length of the space as possible. Your space would likely need about 18k BTUs. However, the best way to know the exact amount of heating or cooling you need would be with a Manual J calculation.

  • Rob P.
    Rob P.
    Posted on 5/28/2020

    Hi I'm torn between the 12k and 18k Mr. Cool units for cooling in my office/gym space above my detached garage. The space is 19' x 30' with angled walls on the east and west. There are also 3 windows and a sliding door. Half of the space had 9' ceilings, and the rest is 8' ceilings. It is also mostly under tree cover. Climate is midwest/Chicago area. I wish there was something right in the middle 15k.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 6/1/2020

    12k BTUs should be sufficient for cooling a space that size in the Chicago area.

  • Daniel Ahner
    Daniel Ahner
    Posted on 5/27/2020

    I have a 500 sq ft basement with r20 walls and concrete floors and above it looking at a 250sq ft kitchen and 250 sq ft living room. What size mini split?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 5/27/2020

    For cooling all three areas, your best option would likely be a new DIY Multi-Zone like this one: https://iwae.com/shop/27k-btu-22-seer-mrcool-diy-3-zone-ductless-heat-pump-split-system-9k-9k-12k-ha21036.html

  • David
    David
    Posted on 5/26/2020

    Think about buying a MrCool Dual unit. Can I run the electrical from the compressor to my box in the basement? Or are there any instructions on how to do so correctly?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 5/27/2020

    The manufacturer only provides instructions on wiring the air handler to the condenser and the condenser to the disconnect box.

  • Marcus
    Marcus
    Posted on 5/18/2020

    Are the linesets flexible enough to go through the attic and connect to the wall units via an interior wall?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 5/19/2020

    Yes. Though if you go up through the attic to connect to the condenser, you may need a condensate pump to remove the condensation buildup from the air handler.

  • Tommy Lyons
    Tommy Lyons
    Posted on 5/16/2020

    HI, my Garage is 54 long 25 wide and 12'10 celling i have a 10' door on each end i want to cool & heat it . I'm thinking about a MR Cool DIY Multi Zone what size unit should i get i dont want to come up short on heat or cooling it i live in northern Illinois. is the celling unit Flush mounted? THANKS

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 5/18/2020

    For a space that size, make sure you get a unit with at least 36k BTUs. The DIY does not have a ceiling unit available. Though the wall units are mounted flat against the wall.

  • Rita A
    Rita A
    Posted on 5/14/2020

    I have a 995 sqft home, 3bd/1ba bungalow home in SoCal. Would a 24K Mr Cool DIY be enough for the whole house or should we do the multi zone option?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 5/15/2020

    It depends. If you can position it to distribute air effectively, a single-zone can deliver great air comfort. Of course, you can always get better comfort targeting with a multi-zone option.

  • Rick
    Rick
    Posted on 5/1/2020

    I have 1k sq ft main level home in minn what size would you recommend?

  • Brian Preston
    Brian Preston
    Posted on 4/13/2020

    I am enclosing a portion of a 50x60 metal building and would like to condition it. Total area is 28'x19', 20'x19 will have 20'ceiling, 8'x9' bathroom and 8'x10' kitchenette with 9' ceilings. The kitchen will be open to the larger area and both of these rooms will have loft area above that is open to the larger area as well. The 8x9 bathroom will be the only area separated with a door. A bit difficult to describe, but basically: 380 sq. ft w/ 20' ceiling & 228 squ. ft. with 9' ceiling (all open to each other), then a 76 sq. ft. bathroom separated by a door. Assuming I will need a split system for this application. I'm in the Houston, TX area. Any suggestion on sizing this system?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 4/13/2020

    Given that large ceiling space and the fact that you're in Texas, I would recommend the DIY 24k.

  • Richard Ameis
    Richard Ameis
    Posted on 4/12/2020

    I have a 12x20 shabin in the midwest, insulated, what's the smallest unit I can use?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 4/13/2020

    The smallest would be a 6k.

  • Cheryl Staples
    Cheryl Staples
    Posted on 4/10/2020

    I have a 560 square foot little old Jim Walter Home with baseboard heat. Got it cheap because it needed new windows. Now I do not want window ac units and saw a Mitsubishi unit at the local water dept that was heating the place well and about the size of my house. It is very humid here in NE NC. What do you recommend? I have a dehumidifyer but would like to not have it if the mini split will do the job. I don't want to spend too much, but want something dependable, efficient and with a great warranty. Thank you!

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 4/13/2020

    We would recommend a MRCOOL 12k DIY or Advantage, depending on whether you want to install it yourself or not.

  • Harry Terrell
    Harry Terrell
    Posted on 3/30/2020

    Is there a DIY unit available with no heat pump in around an 18000 BTU range. Don't need heat at all.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 3/30/2020

    Not as far as I know.

  • weldon jones
    weldon jones
    Posted on 2/25/2020

    how good is mft warrenty/on time/reasonable/thoughtful to customer and installer

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 2/26/2020

    The quality and value of the manufacturer warranty on a ductless mini-split, of course, varies by manufacturer. However, when you purchase a ductless mini-split from us, all warranty claims you might have go through us, so we can ensure you get maximum value from the manufacturer.

  • Lorrie
    Lorrie
    Posted on 2/3/2020

    I have a 330 sq. ft area in north East Ohio. A sun room that is filled with windows and making it into a single elderly person. No insulation except double pain windows. Will a mini split work for this area and be comfortable for warmth and cool? Full Windows on the East. House attached on west. If it is feasible, what size Btu and make? Thank you in advance.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 2/4/2020

    It is possible to use a mini-split for heating and air conditioning. The size would depend on a number of factors that an engineer would use to determine the actual BTU requirement. Based on the information provided, an 18,000 btu unit should be effective for cooling under most conditions, and should also work for heat. However, if outdoor temperatures fall below mid 20’s, heat output will be reduced and you might want an additional heat source.

  • Diane
    Diane
    Posted on 1/16/2020

    Is there a hyper heat DIY MrCool?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/16/2020

    There is a MrCool Hyper Heat, but it is not a DIY.

  • patty
    patty
    Posted on 1/12/2020

    how much do these units cost?

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/13/2020

    Ductless mini-split unit cost can vary widely depending on what you need and want. For example, you can get a basic, economic mini-split for about $500 or so. By contrast, you could get a big five-zone, 42k BTU system with all the bells and whistles for as high as $8000. Most folks don't need that much, of course.

  • Mark
    Mark
    Posted on 1/8/2020

    Will the 24000 BTU and 16 seer do it yourself unit work at 7000 feet elevation in New Mexico. Temperatures can be t down to 0 degrees and average winter lows are high teens . Cabin is 960 square feet. Thanks

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 1/9/2020

    Cooling shouldn't be a problem, but heating can be a challenge in those cold conditions. You may want to take a look at a unit like the MrCool Olympus Hyper Heat. They're a mini-split that is designed to stand up better to cold temperatures. https://iwae.com/shop/heating-air-conditioning/full-systems/ductless-split-systems/?series=716

  • Becky Sharpe
    Becky Sharpe
    Posted on 12/30/2019

    I have a cabin that is 800 sq ft. It is open concept with a loft. The only separated rooms are the bathroom and storage. The ceiling height is 15 feet. Will a single 24,000 unit heat and cool this space? Live in North Florida.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 12/31/2019

    Hard to say for sure without a Manual J heat loss/heat gain calculation, but 24k BTUs should be good for a space that size in Florida.

  • Doug
    Doug
    Posted on 12/2/2019

    I’m building a 28x28 in eastern WV can a ductless split system heat and cool year round? Does it have auxiliary heat. Thanks

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 12/5/2019

    Yes, a ductless split system that is a heat pump will be able to heat and cool. Most do not have auxiliary heat strips. However, some models are better fitted for cold weather heating than others such as the MrCool or Mitsubishi Hyper Heat units. https://iwae.com/shop/24k-btu-20-seer-mitsubishi-ductless-heat-pump-condenser-ha12280.html

  • Wayne Johnson
    Wayne Johnson
    Posted on 11/18/2019

    I have a 16x32 full open area family room on one end kitchen on the other. It has 8 1/2 ft. ceilings with R30 and 6 in. walls with R19. My questions is would a12k unit suffice or should I go with an 18k since I’m at the upper end of sizing. Also can the unit be placed on the long wall and still heat and cool the entire area? Or is it better on one end blowing the entire length. Thanks

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 11/19/2019

    Whether you should go with a 12k or 18k in this instance really depends on your climate zone. If you're in a really hot climate, go with the 18k. For milder seasonal temperatures, use the 12k. Positioning the unit in such a way that it can blow the entire length of the space would likely provide better performance.

  • Robbie
    Robbie
    Posted on 11/14/2019

    I have a 30' x 50' metal building with 12 foot walls in central Texas. The walls and ceiling are insulated. The peak of the ceiling maybe 15 feet high. What size unit would work best for this set up and would one unit be sufficient? My main concern is the humidity in the shop. Thank you.

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 11/14/2019

    For a space that size in central Texas, you would likely need a 36k or 42k unit. For humidity, some mini-splits can run in Dry Mode. Dry Mode operates the unit on a lower setting, so it has a longer cooling cycle to more effectively dehumidify.

  • Jeff
    Jeff
    Posted on 11/5/2019

    Thinking of getting a diy36000 btu mini split I have a 32x64 12’ ceilings would a 36000 btu do the job, I’m going to divide it off to 32 x32 space will it work

  • Kyle
    Kyle from Ingrams
    Posted on 11/5/2019

    It really depends on your climate zone. For a more northerly climate with solid insulation, a 36k BTU system can handle between 1600 and 2000 sf. That doesn't work in southern climes with hotter temperatures. The same unit in Florida is only rated for 1500 to 1800 sf. Give us a call at 270-575-9595 and we can help you figure out precisely what you need.


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