Loading... 258 view(s) 5 min read

Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Buying Guide

Whole Home Expert

A ductless mini-split heat pump is a compact and versatile heating and air conditioning alternative to conventional HVAC systems reliant on ducts to distribute conditioned air throughout an environment. Ductless technology is ideal for applications in which installing a conventional product would be too costly or technically difficult to be worthwhile. Are you interested in mini-split technology, but don't know what you need to get for your home? Don't worry, this buying guide can help.

Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump Overview

Ductless split systems might be smaller than central heating and air units, but they're just as sophisticated. Let's start with the basics:

Ductless units rely on the same refrigeration cycle as regular air conditioners.
All ductless mini-splits are electric. None need natural gas or other fuels.
Unlike window air conditioners, ductless mini-splits can be very energy efficient.
Overall, ductless units need a much smaller installation footprint than central HVAC units.

Types of Ductless Split Systems

Ductless Split System Air Conditioner

A ductless split system air conditioner is the most basic ductless unit you can find. These are cooling-only systems. They typically feature an interior wall-mounted air handler and an outside condenser. These are lightweight, and easy for a trained professional to install. If you will only ever need cooling, a ductless a/c unit could be a great choice for your home.

Ductless Split System Heat Pump

Ductless split system heat pumps are typically the product we recommend to customers who want a total comfort ductless solution. Like a ductless air conditioner, a ductless heat pump can cool, but it can also heat. That flexibility is really valuable, and typically does not increase the sales price by a large margin. Generally, ductless heat pump heating is good for early spring, late fall, and mild winter conditions. They are not designed to heat at maximum capacity below freezing or below zero.

Ductless Hyper Heat Units

Many manufacturers sell ductless "Hyper Heat" units. These are ductless heat pumps made to optimize their cold weather heating potential. In this regard, the developers have been fairly successful in fielding a heat pump that can produce significant heat below freezing and even below zero. While a Hyper Heat ductless unit is no replacement for a traditional gas furnace in extreme cold weather regions, these are the most effective ductless heating tools available.

Ductless Multi-Zone Systems

A ductless multi-zone system is a ductless heat pump that connects multiple interior air handling units to a single outside condenser. Typically, a ductless system is installed to service a single interior zone. Multi-zone systems can provide heating and cooling for up to five different interior zones. That is often sufficient to distribute conditioned air throughout an entire home of average size.

Ductless Air Handler Configuration

While ductless condensers are all very similar in design, ductless interior air handlers are available in different shapes and sizes. The most common wall-mounted air handler is a lightweight rectangular box that hangs on an inside wall. Ceiling-mounted cassette units can be installed in ceiling spaces when desired or when wall mounting is not an option. Ceiling-mounted concealed duct units are another option for homeowners who do not find either wall-mounted air handlers or cassettes to their liking.

Common Ductless Components & Features

SEER

SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. Long story short, SEER is a measure of how efficient your heat pump or air conditioner will cool your home through a long hot summer. Just like conventional products, ductless mini-split heat pumps measure their cooling efficiency with SEER.

HSPF

HSPF stands for Heating Season Performance Factor. Like SEER, HSPF is a measure of efficiency. Unlike SEER, HSPF measures winter heating performance as opposed to summer cooling. The better the HSPF, the more efficiently your ductless unit will heat.

Compressor

The compressor is the heart of any heat pump or air conditioner. That is as true for ductless units as it is a big central a/c. Previous generation systems tended to use rotary or scroll compressors. Many of the newest ductless units use inverter compressors. Inverter compressors are definitely a superior choice, and when possible you should opt for a ductless unit that relies on one. They allow the heat pump to operate more effectively and efficiently.

Blower Motor

A blower motor is an interior air handler component. Quite simply, it is the part that blows air over a hot or cold coil to make the interior zone either hotter or colder. It's really that simple.

Coil

The evaporator coil and condenser coil are two parts of the same device that allow a heat pump or air conditioner to cool, heat, or dehumidify. Most ductless coils are smaller than their conventional counterparts due to the compact size ductless applications require. Whenever possible, opt for a coil that is corrosion-resistant, since corrosion is always a major long term coil concern.

Wireless Capability

The vast majority of ductless mini-splits (or conventional HVAC systems) do not have any wireless or smartphone compatibility. However, this is changing. The latest generation of ductless products allow homeowners to control their ductless units with smartphone apps. Some top-of-the-line units are even compatible with common smarthome products like Alexa, Google Assist, Nest, and others.

Refrigerant Line Set Connection Type

The most common ductless lineset you will find are flared connections. Any experienced professional will find these easy to work with. The newest lineset on the market are precharged lines often sold as DIY products. These lines are precharged with refrigerant, and are usually only compatible with certain products.

Air Filters

Just like any central air conditioner, a ductless mini-split heat pump will have an air filter or filters that it uses to keep dust, pollen, and other contaminants away from the coil. Always refer to your owner's manual, but these usually need to be cleaned regularly. Which means every month or two, and not every year or two.

Warranty

Ductless mini-split heat pump warranty terms and conditions can vary, so be sure to read any warranty before you buy a product. However, most ductless units come standard with a warranty that will last anywhere from 5-10 years. Sometimes you may need to register the warranty to get the full terms. You typically have 60 days to do that from the date of installation. Don't forget!

Ductless Mini Split System Top Sellers

[product ids="14740,14741,18973,18974"]

Want to Know More About A Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump?

Do you still have questions about ductless mini-split heat pump or air conditioner systems? Just ask us in the comments below.

208 comments

Leave your comment

Your email address will not be published

E McCloskey

2 questions- can you connect more than one blower unit to a single compressor, and what is a multi area unit?

Carlos L Robles

Hello engrams, how large of a hole do you have to cut inside of your house for one of these units? Also my house it's kind of upside down, the kitchen and living room etc. is upstairs and the bedroom are downstairs, where would be the best place to mount a ductless inside unit if I were to only have one? Thank you very much for your help and I look forward to doing business with you.

Pauline Johnson

What size heat pump mini unit do I need for a 900sq ft (floor space) attic are with sloped walls? We live in San Francisco so no extreme temperatures. Thank you

Jill

When installing 2 to 3 wall units do they each have ther own connections to the outside unit? Can you show how the all get connected together to the one outside unit? Thanks

Neal

Hey Kyle...just got into my new home in North Carolina. It can get very humid here unlike where I moved from Las Vegas. So my first question, I have a 1000 sq ft garage which will be my new Woodworking shop. It has approx a celling height of 12 ft. What size split unit do you think will do? Also I'm hearing about AC/DC, function I assume less power usage is behind that but is that a standard in all the split units out there? And last Kyle I'm seeing dehumidifier function. In my thinking any AC unit dehumidify's. What's that all about? Thanks for your opinions Kyle, Neal in Las Vegas,NV.

Paul

If I'm able to send you a floor plan of my soon-to-be expanded lake cabin (roughly 1250 s.f.), can you recommend the location of interior blowers? I'm hoping to get by with 2 DIY units, but I don't know if air circulation between rooms would make that feasible.

Tim Ikner

Northeast North Carolina here. How much tubing between the evaporators and condenser units comes with the 12k units and is additional tubing available? Reason asking is I have a finished attic that I would like to cool on the third floor of a residential building as well as a second floor. I am considering a multi-zone unit as well

Michael

Is there a compressor heater that runs all the time? I see some units have the heater. That would increase my electric bill.

Ken Crowell

What are the power requirements for any given unit? Also how loud are units in decibles?

George

I do not want/need heat pump function. What are my options for mini split with 2 condensers approx 10,000 and 18,000 btu to cool first floor of my townhouse?

Kevin Ring

Going to purchase the mrcool DIY 18k min split unit, my question what type of electrical box do I need outside that connects all lines from circuit breaker & inside unit to, then out to electrical box????

Shari Pease

I have a 16' x 40' shed, living room and bedroom separated by a closet and bathroom. Would a 24 btu DIY handle everything?

Bob Bishop

Do they make a duel fuel mini-split (propane/electric)?

Jeff

Thinking of getting a diy36000 btu mini split I have a 32x64 12’ ceilings would a 36000 btu do the job, I’m going to divide it off to 32 x32 space will it work

Robbie

I have a 30' x 50' metal building with 12 foot walls in central Texas. The walls and ceiling are insulated. The peak of the ceiling maybe 15 feet high. What size unit would work best for this set up and would one unit be sufficient? My main concern is the humidity in the shop. Thank you.

Wayne Johnson

I have a 16x32 full open area family room on one end kitchen on the other. It has 8 1/2 ft. ceilings with R30 and 6 in. walls with R19. My questions is would a12k unit suffice or should I go with an 18k since I’m at the upper end of sizing. Also can the unit be placed on the long wall and still heat and cool the entire area? Or is it better on one end blowing the entire length. Thanks

Doug

I’m building a 28x28 in eastern WV can a ductless split system heat and cool year round? Does it have auxiliary heat. Thanks

Becky Sharpe

I have a cabin that is 800 sq ft. It is open concept with a loft. The only separated rooms are the bathroom and storage. The ceiling height is 15 feet. Will a single 24,000 unit heat and cool this space? Live in North Florida.

Mark

Will the 24000 BTU and 16 seer do it yourself unit work at 7000 feet elevation in New Mexico. Temperatures can be t down to 0 degrees and average winter lows are high teens . Cabin is 960 square feet. Thanks

patty

how much do these units cost?

Diane

Is there a hyper heat DIY MrCool?

Lorrie

I have a 330 sq. ft area in north East Ohio. A sun room that is filled with windows and making it into a single elderly person. No insulation except double pain windows. Will a mini split work for this area and be comfortable for warmth and cool? Full Windows on the East. House attached on west. If it is feasible, what size Btu and make? Thank you in advance.

weldon jones

how good is mft warrenty/on time/reasonable/thoughtful to customer and installer

Harry Terrell

Is there a DIY unit available with no heat pump in around an 18000 BTU range. Don't need heat at all.

Cheryl Staples

I have a 560 square foot little old Jim Walter Home with baseboard heat. Got it cheap because it needed new windows. Now I do not want window ac units and saw a Mitsubishi unit at the local water dept that was heating the place well and about the size of my house. It is very humid here in NE NC. What do you recommend? I have a dehumidifyer but would like to not have it if the mini split will do the job. I don't want to spend too much, but want something dependable, efficient and with a great warranty. Thank you!

Richard Ameis

I have a 12x20 shabin in the midwest, insulated, what's the smallest unit I can use?

Brian Preston

I am enclosing a portion of a 50x60 metal building and would like to condition it. Total area is 28'x19', 20'x19 will have 20'ceiling, 8'x9' bathroom and 8'x10' kitchenette with 9' ceilings. The kitchen will be open to the larger area and both of these rooms will have loft area above that is open to the larger area as well. The 8x9 bathroom will be the only area separated with a door. A bit difficult to describe, but basically: 380 sq. ft w/ 20' ceiling & 228 squ. ft. with 9' ceiling (all open to each other), then a 76 sq. ft. bathroom separated by a door. Assuming I will need a split system for this application. I'm in the Houston, TX area. Any suggestion on sizing this system?

Rick

I have 1k sq ft main level home in minn what size would you recommend?

Rita A

I have a 995 sqft home, 3bd/1ba bungalow home in SoCal. Would a 24K Mr Cool DIY be enough for the whole house or should we do the multi zone option?

Tommy Lyons

HI, my Garage is 54 long 25 wide and 12'10 celling i have a 10' door on each end i want to cool & heat it . I'm thinking about a MR Cool DIY Multi Zone what size unit should i get i dont want to come up short on heat or cooling it i live in northern Illinois. is the celling unit Flush mounted? THANKS

Marcus

Are the linesets flexible enough to go through the attic and connect to the wall units via an interior wall?

David

Think about buying a MrCool Dual unit. Can I run the electrical from the compressor to my box in the basement? Or are there any instructions on how to do so correctly?

Daniel Ahner

I have a 500 sq ft basement with r20 walls and concrete floors and above it looking at a 250sq ft kitchen and 250 sq ft living room. What size mini split?

Rob P.

Hi I'm torn between the 12k and 18k Mr. Cool units for cooling in my office/gym space above my detached garage. The space is 19' x 30' with angled walls on the east and west. There are also 3 windows and a sliding door. Half of the space had 9' ceilings, and the rest is 8' ceilings. It is also mostly under tree cover. Climate is midwest/Chicago area. I wish there was something right in the middle 15k.

Clayton Hudson

Kyle, I have a 14x40 glassed in porch with a sloping ceiling that is 15ft at the top and slopes down to 8 ft at the bottom. What size heating/cooling do you suggest, and would it be more efficient installing it on one of the end walls or on one of the side walls?

Masum

I have a two story house in NYC. It has centralized oil heating system. I am planning to install duck less split unit for heating and cooling. 1st floor about 1100 sq.ft and second floor 700 sq. ft. What do you suggest. Does it save money?

Zack

I am wanting to cool/heat my garage. It’s 22’x22’ with 8’ ceiling. I need to keep it in the 60-75 degree range for the materials I work with. I live in NW Oklahoma, gets above 100 degrees quite a bit. Do I need a 12k or 18k btu heat pump? Thank you

Don kellenberger

I have two story bungalow with 2 bedrooms and bath up ( about 500sq ft) and living room dining room kitchen and bth on lower ( 1000 to 1100 sq ft). Feel I need multi zone to cover 2 upper bedrooms separately. And then zone for lower floors. How does it work for 2 story homes like this.

Don Kellenberger

Follow up. Location in mid Michigan for 1600 sq ft bungalow.

Troy Auth

I'm looking to use a mutli-zone unit to cool the second-story of our 100yo bungalow & take the chill off when it is not efficient to operate our hot water boiler with the original cast iron radiators in each room in the fall & spring here in MN (Twin Cities). There are 3 bedrooms & a small bathroom on this floor. The master bedroom is used every day & has 156 sq ft & a 42 sq st walk-in closet (approx 200 sq ft total). Since this is where my girlfriend & I sleep we would like a separate wall unit for this room. The other two bedrooms are used for an office & for occasional guests. It would nice If we didn't have to put a separate wall unit in each of these rooms. The spare & office bedrooms are each 120 sq ft (175 with their walk-in closets) & the bathroom is 50 sq ft (75 with small closet). There is a small hallway & open space above the stairway to main floor that is an additional 100 sq ft. So these 2 bedrooms, the bathroom & the hall/stairway add an additional 390 sq ft (525 with closets). The exterior walls are not insulated very well, but there is R-50+ insulation in the attic & the windows are all fairly new & have insulated glass. I'm amazed at how cheap our natural gas bill is when heating the house with our new boiler during the winter. I think an 18K outside/condenser unit will do the job & would like to put a 6-9K wall unit in the master bedroom, but am really struggling with what to use for the rest of the floor. The doorways to the spare & office bedrooms & bathroom are just 2-3 feet away from the landing at the top of the open stairway & therefore I'm wondering if the air from the 4 sides of a ceiling cassette will be sufficient to cool these areas off. The side facing west will blow straight into the office bedroom, the side facing north into the spare bedroom, the side facing east into the 4-5 foot hallway leading to the bathroom (on the right) & the master bedroom that will have its own wall unit straight ahead & the side facing south into the open space above the stairway going to the main floor. All 3 bedrooms have good ceiling fans in them & the open stairway has a really good ceiling fan in its peak. How do you think a 12K cassette would do there? Or do you think a 12K wall unit placed up high on the south wall of the open stairway (blowing towards the offie & spare bedrooms) would be just as good or better? Thanks in advance for any advice you're willing to share! Covid19 has my girlfriend working at home these days, she's starting to get a little warm & the old window AC she's using is really inefficient!

Jeff Biggs

Can the condenser unit be placed underneath a deck that is approximately 6 feet high. What else exactly do I need to purchase with my diy mini split

Burt

I have 2 questions. First, background: I have a metal building in central Texas with an upstairs training room (20x30), with 9’ ceiling and R23 ceiling/walls. Downstairs is a shop space with 8’ ceiling. I would like to control the temps to moderate the extremes, but don’t really need “living space” control, if that makes sense. It seems like 2 x 12k air handlers upstairs and one downstairs would do what I want. The upstairs lines would be longer than 25’. Question 1: Am I reasonably close on sizing? Question 2: Are linger lines available in the DIY bundles?

Francisco Macedo

I have a single story block house that has 1400sf, three bedroom 1 bath. What kind of system would you recommend? I live in central Florida which has high humidity all the time.

Derek

I'm in the process of finishing half of a large attic as living space and plan to finish the rest in a year or two. I want to install a mini-split system with 4 zones, but I would only be using 2 of the zones for the first couple of years. Should I buy a compressor that is big enough to run all 4 zones if 2 of them will not be used for a while, or would it be better to buy a smaller compressor now, then upgrade it when I add the other zones? (I don't have the outdoor space to install 2 compressors)

I have a small rectangular home in Connecticut (988 SF). Approx 688 of that is living room/kitchen (open) and a 300SF bedroom at one end. I'm having trouble determining if a single zone would make sense (cheaper) or multi-zone so I can have only the BR zone on at night, etc. Can you make a recommendation as to zones and mini-split DIY model to consider?

Liam Kerr

Hi! I have a 1650 sq ft in So California. 4 average size bedrooms with about 1000 sq ft open space living dining kitchen. I need cooling and heating in all rooms Mainly cooling as we have central heat but it is spotty and not effective in the main parts of the house. What size unit do I need for the main area. It’s 3 “rooms” that are all connected and get so hot. Do I need one compressor for the main area and then a separate compressor and blowers connected to all the bedrooms? Or can one compressor work all those areas efficiently? What size? Thanks!

Crystal Prud Homme Delodder

I have a detached garage approximately 25 feet away from my house in my backyard. My attached garage has be split in half and I made a salon out of the back half of that garage. My detached garage that is 20-25 feet directly behind that has been turned into a man cave. I need ac and heat in both locations. Can I use one dual zone mini split Heat pump to control both locations? If so how can I how the lines? Can I run them underground so they are not laying across my backyard?

John

I have a home in coastal Northern California. It is warm enough to need AC for only a month or so a year and the unit will mostly uses for heating. The area is rather mild in the winter and is only in the low to mid 30s at night and 50s during the day for a couple of months My house has two rooms that need to be heated: a great room that is 24x50 (1200 sq ft) and a bedroom that is 250 sq ft. It has R15 in the walls and R60 in the attic. I would like to get a multi zone mini split system. What size would you recommend? Would it be ok to get two air handlers for the larger room to get more even heating and cooling? It seems that a 9k air handler for the bedroom would be way overkill. Can the system compensate for an over sized air handler?

Dolly

Our home is almost 2500 sq ft. We currently have oil heat and we want to get rid of it completely. We have 3 bedrooms and bath upstairs. The remain living space it downstairs. We are located in Northern Pennsylvania so the winters can be bad at times but always seems to be long. The summers can be very hot and humid. How big of a unit or units would I need to keep the house cool in the summer and warm in the winter?

CC Kleinpeter

For a mini split system do I need separate air handler‘s for each room? The set up is a living room ,kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. Or do I need just one system for the total square footage

Jon

I'm in southern California. Looking to cool a 580 sq ft 3-car garage (9' ceiling) as my gym. Most AC btu calculators say either 12k or 18k. I read thru all your comments and think an 18k system is the way to do it. Just wanted to confirm since a 12k utilizes a 120v circuit and takes up less space. Also if I opt to install a MrCool DIY (12k or 18k) AC split, the instruction says to cut the 3.5" hole to the right rear (looking at the handler from the front). But can the refrigerant/drain line be installed to exit the left rear side of the air handler? What about exiting the left/right sides instead of the rear?

JOHN LE

are you, guys still in business? I have been called, but there were nobody answered.

Bob Manning

I have a 24 x 48 ft unfinished open basement (used mostly for storage) with an outside door at one end and an open 8 step staircase to a foyer area about 1/2 way down the 48 ft length. I live in Northwest New Jersey, and would like to know what size mini split system I would need to keep it cool in the summer and heated in the winter. The floor is concrete, walls are cinder block and the 8 ft high ceiling is insulated.

Min

My contractor recommends Cooltime mini-split system to us, couldn't get much info about this brand online, I was told it's related to Gree? Is it a brand we can trust? Thank you very much for your insights!

Terry Barton

Can you shut off zones in a ductless Multi-Zone System when the rooms aren't in use? Are there time of day schedule controllers for each zone?

Corinne L. Mason

Do these DIY kits come with everything you need? Or do you have other parts you need to buy, and if so what are they? I am looking at your 27K BTU 22SEEp Multi Zone MrCool DIY 3 Zone Ductless heat Pump Split system 9K, 12K, 12K. I am looking for it to heat three bedrooms that are each about 15x12

Willim

Hi, Building detached garage workspace in middleTN; 2 stry 1200sq ft/level one big room each level 2x6 studs and closed cell foam. manual J calcs from software come up with 14k cooling 36k heating which i find a little odd because its freaking hot down here. looking to DIY w heat pump. With a heat pump, how do you consider the disparity in heating/cooling BTU? second, its one big room on each fllor but kinda long, was thinking about 2 air handlers per floor. Can you advice

William Wells

Have a two level, two zone structure. 1st level = 600SF, 2nd level = 700Sf. Need best rated, best priced Dual Zone DIY Heat Pump. Thank you

Bill

What is the advantages between the DIY and ANVANTAGE units? Also looking at DuctlessAir units if you care to comment.

Tom cassella

Im renovating a house in NW Alabama. Very damp. I have a couple of questions. How well does the mrcool diy heat pump minisplit remove moisture from the air in heat and or cool mode? Second question since im renovating myself and going relatively slowly is it practical to buy a 4 zone unit and add air handlers to it as i finish off rooms or do i have to buy 4 handlers with a 4 zone unit

Tom cassella

Also a tech question. Does the outside condenser need to be installed lower than interior air handling unit for any flow or gravity reasons? Im considering installing the outside unit higher for security reasons

Ben

I live in northern California in a redwood forest, so the AC would only be needed a handful of times in the summer, heating needed most of the winter to replace a single wall furnace that is used to heat the whole house. The house is roughly 700 sq.ft total. I tried to calculated my total required BTU's for our small house to be 9000 BTU for cooling and 14.100 BTU for heating, though I'm not 100% sure. The two bedrooms are small, 195 sq.ft and 150 sq.ft, but with high sloped ceilings. The sloped ceiling are 8.5' at lowest to 12' at highest point. The downstairs is all open plan (no doors except for the bathroom), roughly 352 sq.ft, with 9' ceilings. The smallest Mr Cool DIY multi zone compressor unit is 27,000 BTU, and the smallest indoor air handler is 9000 BTU. Will a 9000 BTU air handler and a 27,000 BTU outdoor unit in such small bedrooms be crazy/inefficient? I am thinking of installing 27,000 BTU multi zone DIY outdoor unit, with two 9000 BTU air handlers for the bedrooms and one 12,000 BTU air handler for the downstairs. Any feedback would be great!

Steve

I have. 671 sq ft basement beneath a garage in kansas city mo. Concrete walls and 8 ft or less concrete ceiling. I'm looking at mr cool diy 12k or 18k. Which size would you recommend for both heat and cooling?

Holly

I’m in San Diego Ca - 10 miles inland. I’d like to put a 110 split in a 8x20 conventional framed tiny home. It has a 13 foot high open ceiling with an 8x7 loft. What size unit would you recommend? Minimal heating but maximum cooling needs. There is also very little wall space- is ceiling mount for the interior unit possible?

William James

I have a detached steel garage. S.F. is 720. Ceiling is 12 feet. Will a 18K unit heat/cool. I'm not looking for house comfort, just decent temp in which to work and play.

Jonathan Blain

what size disconnect whip conduit is needed, 1/2" or 3/4" for a 12k single zone 115 volt mini split outdoor unit?

Bill Pierson

I’m looking for a system to heat and cool a 900sq foot shop with 10 ft ceiling. I love in southwest middle Tennessee. What unit (byu’s) would you suggest?

GREGORY A WHITSETT

Our cabin is located in Michigan's northern lower peninsula, the cabin is only 600 square feet well insulated. We rarely would go up in the winter. Our hope is to extend the fall and early spring seasons. Any suggestions?

jack

I have an insulated room above my garage. It measures 19' x 19' with 8' ceilings. I live in MD. I am more interested in heating in the winter. (feb 20deg) although I do like the cooling in the summer. (aug high 90's). I looking at the 18k DIY. Is this overkill? Would a 12K BTU work, or would the unit be struggling?

Jeff

I live in the Dallas/Ft Worth area, I have a 10 X 16 building that is insulated with closed-cell spray foam. I will use it as an office and want to heat and cool it. The building currently has 110 V run to it, I was considering a 110V, 9K BTU split system to heat and cool the building. In your opinion, would the 9K Split system do the job in the hot summers we have here in Dallas/Ft Worth, or is this too large for the area to heat and cool?

John Owens

I want to buy a 12000 btu and run it on solar/batteries. Do you have info on how many amp draw on low , med, high ? So I can figure out if I have enough amp hours to run it and for how long. Thank you

Mark Cutrer

building a two story home, 1384 sq ft lower, 1450 sg ft upper. want ot install two multi zone units. what size will be needed?

Maxim

Heat and air in 3 separate 480sf zones, I live in eastern WV. what would you recommend. Thanks

Michael K.

We are redoing our approx. 800 sf cabin in eastern, NE. Summers can get HOT, and winters can easily get below zero. There are 2 small bedrooms, like 100 sf each, and the rest of the space is living area / kitchen. Currently, each bedroom has a window unit and baseboard heating, but those are going away. What would be best to cool each bedroom and the main living area. Would the bedrooms each need their own unit, or could they possible share one, since they are so small? Also, does it matter where the interior unit is placed for the main room? The area is a rectangle - should it be centered on the long side, or on the short side, blowing the length of the area? Any insight into what type of system to get would be extremely helpful! Thanks so much.

Bryan

Hello I live in southeast Tennessee looking at the Mr Cool mini split system , I live in a 1997 double wide with cedar siding , we have since added house wrap , plus foam board insulation , and vinyl siding. On the inside we have added D log siding over the existing Sheetrock- the home is 1900 square ft under roof - great room is cathedral type ceiling 10’ in middle approx 14 x26 - lg master bedroom 10x26 thinking I need a four zone - what would you recommend - definitely wanting the heat and air

Steve Krantz

I'm looking at adding a mini split for our den (14' x 20' with 10' ceiling). The best wall for the indoor unit would be over our TV (toward the back of the house), which, I believe, is an issue because the unit would be blowing on the TV. The other three walls are the front, which is mostly windows, an interior wall and a wall to the attached the garage. I was wondering the best solution would be for an air handler. Our home is a ranch style house in New York (central Long Island).

Ivo Havener

Do you know of any ceiling cassette mini-split options compatible with wood framed ceilings with 24" on center spacing? I've found Daikin and Fujitsu options that are slightly too large... We hope to avoid a larger carpentry project.

Bob

Can you route the refrigerant line through the bottom center of a 24000 btu mini split. I would need to surface mount and cover with pvc ductwork.

Monte Juhnke

I have a 50’x50’ shop with 15’ ceiling, r49 insulation in the ceiling and r30 in the walls. Do you have a system that would work for me? I’m in eastern Wa.

Jim Lengel

Which is the appropriate DIY unit for a small, 250-square-foot studio apartment above a garage? Heating is more important than cooling, and it can get quite cold up here (Vermont). We are handy, and would like to install it ourselves.

Walter Rider

How does the inside unit drain condensation from itself when using AC in the summertime

Rick

I'm building a 28'x30' cabin in central WV. Half of the cabin will be lofted with a bedroom and bath on each level. The remaining half is open to cathedral ceiling. I'm thinking that the Mr. Cool multizone with 9k units in each bedroom and an 18k unit in the main living area would be sufficient. What do you think?

Tina Hardin

I have a 1500 sq ft home in Missouri, single level 3 bedrooms ,2 bathrooms, it is a longer home and I don't believe I can get away with 1 condenser as it is farther than 25ft. i want heat and ac. what would be the best?

Carol lehmann

We need to cool a c .1877 2 story, uninsulated summer cottage. About 450 sq ‘ (not including the kitchen , bathroom extensions.). It is just balloon framed simplicity, open joists and rafters, barn-type sliding windows on sides. Ceilings were put up but I’d like them down someday and have fans hung from the rafters- ceilings much too low for them now in the bedrooms but use them on the first floor. Downstairs open, enclosed steep stairway to upper level. Three small bedrooms open to the narrow hall. The neighboring cottages are no more than 22” away on either side but there is a small back yard and a open side area beside the kitchen extension. I think the heat can generally be tolerated by using blinds, fans and attitude but am alone in this and most family and visitors insist on cooled air. Allergies. Zoned split ductless system seems our answer - please comment. Maybe the heater would be good to have too , is it worth it for minimal total usage? Because of use patterns, I am wondering if a unit for LR and DR, one for upper hall to serve two rooms and one for the larger bedroom that is often the only one used. Could they really be set individually? Could they be set to a reason temp so renters don’t ice it down all day long while they are away at Cedar Point? What if the old joists are different from 24”oc? I don’t recall now, they may be more, may be less.

Stanley

I have two bedrooms side by side on the front side of my home. They are both 204 square feet each, total 408 square feet. What size DIY min-spit would be best? I read something about having to use at least 2/3’s of the units capacity for it to run correctly? I would like to use a 2 zone system. Eastern North Carolina.

KDP

Suggestions on system (heating and air) for older farmhouse (built in two parts, 1859 and 1929). It is insulated but the newer side is 3 story, would need system(s) on 1st & 2nd stories only. Rooms that would need heat and cooling are 19 x 20 each with hallway on each floor, so hallway would either need heat/air to flow out to that area, or a unit specific to hallway(s). Upper hallway has propane stove between rooms but does not heat enough when very cold and 1st story rooms (except hallway) have propane stoves. Would this type of system work in a house of this age and size? What type of system and estimated cost? Is this something that a certified HVAC individual would need to install?

Swan

Hi Kyle, We have a two story house on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. (Similar weather to Seattle) The upstairs spaces we want to heat/cool are 360 sq ft and 462 sq ft with cathedral ceilings that are 16 feet. The downstairs rooms are 305 sq ft and 576 sq ft with 11 foot ceilings. We want to split them up so that one condenser handles the upstairs 462 sq ft space and the downstairs 576 sq ft space and the other condenser will handle the upstairs 360 sq ft and the downstairs 305 sq ft. Can you recommend sizes for us? Thank you in advance!

Swan

I forgot to add that we have lots of windows. Thanks!

Mike

I have a 30 x 40 pole barn. It has R-19 wall insulation and right now it has R-19 ceiling insulation. So this is one room that is 1200 sf. With 12 foot ceiling. Will a Mr Cool single zone 36000 btu be enough. This building has one insulated 16x8 overhead door. And 3 windows. And one man door. This building is just 2 years old so everything is very well sealed yet.

Jim

I am building a 720 sq ft guest house with a bathroom, bedroom, and open concept kitchen and living room. I am thinking of getting a MrCool Dual Zone 18k heat pump unit. The two zones would be the bedroom 9k, and the kitchen/living room 12k. does that sound about right or would you suggest something else?

Jim N

I am building a 720 sq ft guest house with one bedroom, bathroom, and living room with kitchen area. I am thinking of buying MrCool two zone 18k unit with a 9k and 12k. Is this the correct unit or would you suggest something else.

max

I have a condo in Maui. Not well insulated. It has concrete walls. I am looking to cool the living room 300 sq feet and bedroom 200 sq ft with no windows. What do you recommend? Thanks

Tom

How long is the lineset

Kevin Blanchard

Hello. I have a open 36X60 garage with 16 ft ceiling (2,040 square ft). What size do you recommend for that?

Alan

I am looking at the Mr Cool 24,000 btu diy. It is for a 950 sq ft well insulated garage. There is already a 20 amp 230 vac circuit run to an outdoor disconnect. I am seeing conflicting information between the 3rd and 4th gen units. What if the difference between the units and will they work on the existing electrical circuit?

Cam

Need to heat/cool 660 sq ft metal building, steel frame, with 1" foam board insulation, and concrete floors. 1) What diy product would be recommended? 2) Can the indoor air handlers be ceiling mounted? 3) Do these plug in or are they hard wired? 4) Do they run on 110 or 220?

Bruce

I have a new pole barn with a 36x60 main shop area with 12' ceiling and an additional 10x30 room with 9' ceiling on the side. The walls are insulated with R-19 and the ceilings are R-30. I was looking at a MrCool DIY 48K BTU unit with 3 12K wall units for the main shop and a 9K for the smaller room. Would this system be adequate for my situation or is there something else you would recommend? I am located in Tennessee.

Dave Warner

Hi! I am renovating a detached garage. R15 walls, R38 ceiling, insulated overhead door, 5 double pane new windows, 420 sq ft. I am in climate zone 5. I am primarily interested in using MrCool DIY heat pump but don’t really know which BTU rating I should pick. I will have auxilliary heat for when it is really cold ( less the 10 degrees) outside. Can you suggest a BTU rating for me?

Vadim

Do any multi-zone ductless mini-splits, VRF or non-VRF, simultaneously heat and cool? I can't find anything on the Internet about separate zones running cool and heat at the same time.

Mark

How do I calculate the size mini-split that I need. This unit will be for a garage that is 27x44x12.

James

What is the difference between 4 gen and easy pro series?

ANTHONY SANDERS II

I live in DFW Texas area. I have a metal building with 2" closed cell foam, 1 rollup door, 2 windows. concrete floor . I'm curious about what ductless mini split size I should be looking at for heat and ac

James

If I was going to install at 12,000 BTU mini split, does it matter if I get 120V or 240V? Is one more efficient, quieter, better, less costly to operate and/or maintain?

angela jenkins

Can I heat and cool a 700SF apartment with this type system? what BTU & system would work best? How do I find an installer in my area? Portsmouth, VA 23707

Scott Jones

I live in the front range foothills of Colorado (@7400'). Iv'e been close to purchasing a MrCool Olympus Hyper Heat system (either a few singles, or a multi), but have had a few people tell me anecdotally that Mitsubishi is the only unit that maintains its full BTU output at extreme low temps (lows of +5 to -10). Are all Hyper Heat units capable of this, or is Mitsubishi indeed unique? Also I assume that any unit that is capable of this is still using WAY more electricity when it is very cold outside. Are any brands significantly better than any other for very low temps, or is it just marketing differences?

Crystal Janow

We live in eastern Tennessee.. have a 18X80 3 BR single wide.. we currently use a 25000 BTU that had a space cut in the wall....it does okay.. we use fans throughout the house to help circulation. But the back br gets warm.. not totally uncomfortable but can get miggy at night.... as hot as our summers have been lately was wondering what would work The issue is that this unit costs us around $800 when we replace it. Would I need the 36 BTU? What would you recommend?? We have a furnace that heats but it is probably the same age as the home and know that I am going to have to replace it at some point and in the winter our heat bill is expensive .. what is the cost of these units?